Sucre is the capital of Bolivia and its most charming town. It's small and colonial and is perfect to kick back for a few days.
How to get there
From La Paz, we booked a first class night bus to Sucre for 23 dollars with the company Trans Copacabana, one of the best companies in Bolivia, to undertake this 13 hours journey.
The bus itself was almost new and on par with the quality of the good buses in Peru. The service in the other hand was another story.
So we get to the bus station at 7 pm as our bus was at 7:30. We go to the trans copacabana ticket counter and show our tickets. A lady tells us to go to gate 3. I look around and see only letters so I ask where it is. She does not answer, keeps talking to her collegue. I wait for her to finish then ask again. She says to go around. I say around where, left or right. She does not answer so we leave, we'll figure it out.
We go to the platform. It's very small and full of people. Travellers are running around and all seem lost. We find platform 3 and wait.
At 7:25, a guy passes wearing a trans copacabana t-shirt and he mumbles something about platform 6. We go to check it out and our bus is indeed there. We see a guy loading luggage on the side of bus and we go to him with our bags. As soon as we say hello, he closes the door shut and leaves without looking at us. We wait for a little while. The guy wearing the trans copacabana t-shirt passes by, we ask him what do we do with our luggage but he gets in the bus without answering. We wait for a little longer, Afaf goes in the bus to look for the guy but does not find him. The luggage loader comes back and starts loading more luggage in, we try to give him our luggage, tell him to load them, he does not look at us or answer, closes the door shut then leaves.
We start getting impatient. I go in the bus to look for the employee and I find him in one of the passenger seats playing with his phone. I ask him what do we do with our luggage and he says we had to give them to the check-in counter.
I grab our two packs and run back to the counter. I give it to them and they yell at me telling me that it was 7:35 and I should have done this before. I try to explain that I was here at 7 and they were the ones that did not tell me to give them my luggage but they don't care.
Once on the road, this fancy bus with fully reclinable leather seats has the same behavior as regular cheap buses. One paper it's a direct bus. In reality, the driver stops for whoever wants to do a short distance and negotiates a few dollars for the ride he will put in his pocket. This, of course, creates disturbance and unsafety for the regular passengers.
The bus station is a bit far from the center, so you have to take taxi that will cost you about 2 dollars.
Once in the center, Sucre is very enjoyable to walk around.
Condor B&B: this hostel is very good value. The private room with shared bathroom was 20 dollars. It has a nice courtyard, an outdoor kitchen, decent internet and an ok breakfast.
Our rating for this hostel is 4.5/5
El german: this vegeterian restaurant has a decent set meal for 4 and a half dollars.
The town: Sucre has a nice colonial center that is very enjoyable to walk around.
Dinosaur tracks: sucre has the largest collection of disnosaur tracks in the world. They discovered a wall with over 5000 tracks on it. They built a sort of park around it with life size figurine and a small museum. The entrance fee is 4 and a half dollars. Make sur to go for the free noon or 1 pm tour. Not only are the explanations great, but without it you cannot get close to the tracks. To get to the center, you have to take bus number 4 from behind the market.
The 7 waterfalls: if you want to take a stroll outside of town, you can hop on bus 12 or Q and get off at the end of the line. You can then walk for about 30 mn to find the 7 waterfalls. The first and second waterfalls are not very nice but the third one is nice. To get to the following waterfalls, you will have to do some climbing.
Sucre is probably the most enjoyable town in Bolivia. Although it does not offer amazing activities and won't be the highlight of the country, it's a nice place to relax for a few days.